The Real Alcázar of Seville: What No Guidebook Will Tell You

Yes, Game of Thrones was filmed here. No, that's not the most interesting thing about it. After dozens of visits, here's what to actually pay attention to.

The Real Alcázar is the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. That alone is remarkable. What's less remarkable — but somehow more discussed — is that Dorne from Game of Thrones was filmed here. You'll see people doing the dragon face in front of the Patio de las Doncellas for Instagram. That's fine. You don't have to.

When to go (and when not to)

Opening time. Period. The palace opens at 9:30 AM (9 AM in summer). Book the first slot. By 11 AM, the courtyards are packed. By noon, it's wall-to-wall tour groups with matching earpieces.

Never go on a Sunday morning if you value your sanity. Entry is free for EU residents until 11 AM on Sundays, which sounds generous until you see the queue.

The thing most people miss

The gardens. Not the fancy bit near the entrance — walk to the back, past the pavilion, to the section that feels neglected. It's quieter there. The peacocks wander. There's a pond. In spring, the smell is overwhelming in the best possible way.

Also: the upper floor (Cuarto Real Alto) requires a separate, timed ticket and most tourists don't bother. It's still used by the Spanish royal family. Walk through their actual rooms. It's bizarre and wonderful.

Practical stuff

• Book tickets at least 3-4 weeks ahead in spring/summer
• Budget 2.5 to 3 hours minimum
• The audio guide is actually decent — worth the extra €5
• Wear comfortable shoes. The tile floors will destroy heels.